The other Cilento

The hinterland of Cilento hides, between mountains, rivers, forests and wildlife, some pearls of rare beauty, integrates and primitive. Walkers can not miss the trails of the Valley of the Calore River in the heart of Cilento. The most interesting is developed entirely on the right bank of the river, an unspoiled corner of nature, including dense forests of willows, alder, ash, maple and clumps of maquis. But what is staggering, addition to the landscape consists of rocky walls, steep slopes and transparency of the tumultuous stream, it is the variety of ferns, as well as 370 different species, especially in the line between the countries of Felitto and Magliano.

At the Gorges of Calore River, for those who have a desire for adventure and a minimum of physical preparation, there is the possibility of canyoning to go down in an exciting slalom between the waters frequented by the otter on canoes and kayaks. To the south, in the area where reigns the unmistakable silhouette of Mount Bulgheria that is imposed in the sweetness of the Cilento landscape, you can discover a true wonder: the waterfall “Hair of Venus” in Casaletto Spartano. The name comes from the abundance of Capelvenere plants but also the shape of waterfalls that resemble the bright hair strands. The place enchanted and enchanting, but easy to get, sounds of cold water showers and very clear which houses colonies of frogs and tadpoles. For those who want to walk the suggestion is to take the path that leads from the lake to the throat from which flow the waterfalls, including real moss cushions and tree branches that reach to touch the water.

Peckish post walk? Less than an hour’s drive there is Rofrano, distinctive and well-preserved medieval town on the slopes of Mount Cervati. In the woods, in a valley that slopes down to the brook Pharaoh, there is a trattoria: attention is not easy to find because it does not signboard, but just ask in the village of Cono (Osteria Da Cono, via Molino Vecchio – always open – + 39 0974 952461 – +39 347 4767946) and will direct you here. We have, without knowing it, just asked for directions to Teodoro, son of Cono from which the inn takes its name. But before we took the opportunity to visit the village in which the day before had held a great feast in honor of Our Lady of Grottaferrata, where the women of the country, during the procession through the steep streets of the town, holding up the head “centa”, cot radially formed by candles and decorated with colored ribbons representing the baby Jesus. Each weighs about sixteen chilograms and after the procession was donated to the church as a store of candles throughout the year.

When we reached the inn we found that not only Teodoro was waiting for us, but had meanwhile been preparing homemade noodles to be seasoned with mushrooms as our request. And to the question: “and if we had not come?” said to us, “the homemade pasta you do not throw!”. A true legend surpassed only by his father Cono, a kind of Mangiafuoco with a gentle soul that during the lunch of homemade cheeses, meats, vegetables and garden vegetables and the already nominated noodles, delighted us with cilentani songs playing accordion.

Guests also have some room that welcomes patrons that after lavish dinners do not want to face the winding roads of the area.


This travel blog with the dog is a personal selection of our best experiences, our favorite spots and secrets places around the world curated by Rosalia e Michele.