You can not think of exploring Sardinia in just one week. So, before going, we have defined our tour by opting for the northern part of the island and giving priority to everything that we should definitely see. Naturally, then, the meteorological time factor has also played its part, and we adjusted our holiday to the whims of a June not very summery.
To be clear, once landed in Golfo Aranci, we began our long and fascinating tour of the north to Capo Caccia and the Catalan Alghero, already on the west coast. Not to mention the lesser known inland area of Gallura, covered with cork oaks and animated by concretions of granite with a thousand forms.
But let’s start from the trip. We have reached the island by ferry departing from Civitavecchia with Moby Lines. If today you book early, you can travel with dogs and cats in cabins equipped where our friends are on their mats and bowls (info: http://www.moby.it/landing/viaggiare_con_animali.html), in our holiday time was not so, then we had to resort to a trick to be able to take with us Arturo. But then everything went smoothly until the morning, after a peaceful night’s sleep for all three on board the ferry Fantasy.
Our first stop, after landing, was the countryside around Arzachena where, immersed in silence, stand precious evidence of the ancient Nuragic civilization. Among them the Albucciu nuraghe, one of the 7000 scattered throughout the island. Another feature of the area is the rock “mushroom”, a true natural monument carved by rain and wind. But the most important archaeological nuragico site located in the territory of Arzachena is the Tomb of the Giants Caddu Vecchiu, an impressive complex in granite, the highest of its kind in Sardinia and perfectly preserved. The tomb, with a pillar height of about 4 meters in which is carved false door, frequent subject in the Sardinian prehistory and a symbol of the relationship with the afterlife, dates back to 2500 BC and over time it was then used as a common grave. All around, the atmosphere is surreal, because of a light rain we are almost alone to enjoy this visit to one of the most interesting places on the island.
After the amazement at what man has built, to the spectacle of nature: the Valley of the Moon rocks with strange shapes alternate in green and white placid grazing cows. In this inner area one has the impression of entering into another space-time dimension where the giant granite boulders shaped by thousands of years of wind and rain seem to come to life, transforming at every glance in different forms.
Before reaching our “retreat”, we allow time for another show freely offered by nature: the bathroom of the setting sun in a sea in almost storm admired from the long golden beach Li Junchi, on the north coast open to the winds.
For dinner and the night we chose Il Muto di Gallura in Aggius (Loc. Fraiga, tel. +39 079 620559 – firstname.lastname@example.org), a farm which takes its name from a famous Sardinian bandit and on request accept our 4-legged friends. We stayed in one of the rustic cabins located in an ancient stazzu after concluding the day with a magnificent dinner of Gallura soup, which is prepared with layers of bread soaked with stale meat broth, flavored with cheese and herbs such as thyme and fennel wild and passed in the oven, and goat stew and sour. To end on a sweet note with “sebadas”, round ravioli stuffed with cheese, fried in oil and sprinkled with honey.