After tasting the Sardinian hinterland, we treated ourselves to the sea. And we reached Torre Pelosa, built on the islet that emerges in the narrow strait that separates Sardinia from Asinara. For a long time home to a penal colony, the island has maintained the pristine environment to the present day, and since 1998 it is home to an extraordinary National Park.
As in all the parks the introduction of domestic animals is prohibited which could alter the natural balance, so we gave up to the visit (you can choose guided tours by jeep, train or bus and to book and buy the ticket you have to directly contact one of the operators of these vehicles, which will organize the whole trip that includes a path on the roads, packed lunches, visits to prisons, beaches, wildlife observers and sea: the cost is included boat, truck and guide the Park; for those who do not choose the guided tour, you can go either in Fornelli that Cala Reale with sea transport and you can walk on foot in the Fornelli or Cala Reale areas following the trekking routes that depart from the docks, as well as you can use the bike and follow the 25 km road to Cala d’Oliva. All the information about www.parcoasinara.org) and opted for a small bay all for ourselves between the Pelosa beach and that of Pelosetta where also Arturo could enjoy a dip in the crystal clear waters. The two beaches are among the most beautiful of Sardinia, boasting a white sand as a backdrop to the clear turquoise waters, but in high summer are very crowded due to the easy accessibility.
Worth a visit the “Genoese” Castelsardo dominated by a medieval fortress and the steep streets where every door you see a woman working “tapes” of dwarf palm and raffia to create typical baskets of which we did not miss the purchase. Do not miss near the Elephant Rock, a natural sculpture incredibly similar to the animal that gives it its name.
For those of us who prefer places a little ‘ isolated and almost deserted even in summer, the tip is to reach the sandy area of Badesi, on the northern coast between Castelsardo and Santa Teresa di Gallura, where a sea of pure crystal lapping a beach that seems endless. It follows a series of beautiful coasts: we are in Costa Paradiso, where in addition to the beauty of the sea, at dusk you may be distracted by peaceful small families of wild boar seeking coolness in the sea.
Going forward , suddenly everything changes and appear the rocks of a porphyry cliff overlooking the Red Island, a scarlet stone table that seems to float in a sea of absolute blue.
Open-air museum with fantastic granite carvings drawn by the wind and waves is the panorama of Capo Testa, a short distance from Santa Teresa di Gallura. From Cala Spinosa lookout offers a wonderful view of the entire coast.
But it is going down a steep path between rocks and bushes that you reach heaven! Certainly a bit ‘hard work is necessary but it is really worth. Overlooking the Straits of Bonifacio small beach nestled in the pink granite rocks shaped by the wind into strange shapes guarantees peace and refreshing baths in transparent waters. After you reach Santa Teresa di Gallura, the most Corsican of Sardinia, whose dialect is identical to that used beyond the French border that here is very close.
Obligatory stops are also Palau and Capo d’Orso with the famous Bear’s Rock, which boasts a breathtaking panorama of the coast below, where, according to legend, would find landing Ulysses, welcomed by the people of Lestrigoni.
If you feel like a swim in the clear water and firm as those of a pool even when the sea is rough by a lashing mistral, the ideal is to advance towards the deep Gulf of Arzachena. At Le Piscine is convenient parking to leave the car and then follow a path between rock rose, myrtle, olive, strawberry tree, heather and juniper, to the beach with fine sand and the sea by hue emerald green. After the crowded beach for families with children since the water still comes to the hips knees 50 meters from the shore, giving way coves nestled between the rocks. We walked a bit ‘to find “our” in which to swim and sunbathe completely alone, together with our Arturo who enjoyed to hunt the cormorant couple who had chosen the deserted beach before us!
Urchins fished in the shallow crystal clear water and white cake were our delicious lunch by the sea. At dinner we reserved the “porceddu” the suckling pig on a spit wrapped in myrtle in a wood oven, prepared according to traditional recipe from Constanza who along with husband Mario and their four children form the Cugusi family that deals Agriturismo Monte Istolargiu (Loc. Monte Istulargiu – Str. Castelsardo – Valledoria (SS), tel. +39 348 7240479 – +39 349 6485648 – firstname.lastname@example.org). Here, in this peaceful place on a hill just a few minutes from the sea, overlooking the Gulf of Asinara, in addition to taste the specialties of Sardinian cuisine can be tasted at the table or take home as a souvenir tasty cheeses made from milk of sheep on the holding, pork sausages like sausage, bacon, pork loin, ham, coppa, and even pickles made from the Sardinian spiny artichoke. Do not miss the beautiful sunsets that can be admired from the large terrace while you dine and to sleep there are rooms and apartments simply furnished which also welcome four-legged friends.