Locanda del Feudo is located in the heart of the small, red-brick village of Castelvetro di Modena, a peaceful oasis that seems to belong to a different era compared to the towns in the plains like Sassuolo and Maranello, home of Ferrari. The zone is the hilly area that represents the first step of the Modena Apennines, where the Grasparossa grape is grown, used to produce DOC Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro, along with white Trebbiano, the base to produce Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena.
In the heart of Castelvetro di Modena
Locanda del Feudo, now a hotel and restaurant in the Charme & Relax chain, occupies the premises of an old building that, until the early 2000s, served as a guesthouse for a local multinational. Exactly twenty years ago, in 2005, they were taken over by Andrea and Roberto Rossi. The two brothers, then 23 and 21, decided to open a restaurant where they could enjoy authentic Modenese cuisine, inspired by their grandmother’s teachings. Much progress has been made since then, and Andrea and Roberto’s businesses have also separated.
Remaining in Castelvetro was his older brother, Andrea, a professional sommelier who manages the Locanda del Feudo wine cellar and the small Resort. Each of the six recently renovated and elegantly furnished suites is named after a flower: Rose, Sunflower, Calla Lily, Tulip, Magnolia, and Daisy. Ours? Coincidentally, it was my favorite flower, the Tulip, which welcomed us with modern, refined furnishings in buttery tones and ceilings with old wooden beams, both in the spacious living area with sofa, tables, and chairs, and in the sleeping area.
The Locanda’s location invites you to explore Castelvetro’s historic center, which was once surrounded and defended by walls, the remains of which can still be seen today. Just steps away is the main square, overlooked by the Prison Tower, the Town Hall, and the Clock Tower.
Piazza Roma is also known as Piazza della Dama (Draughts Square) because it houses the black and white chessboard on which the game of Living Checkers is played, commemorating Torquato Tasso‘s stay in the town. The writer stopped in Castelvetro as a young student fleeing Bologna and was hosted in 1564 at the Palazzo of the Rangoni family, whose fate this small town in the Modena Apennines would be tied to for centuries. This noble dynasty is responsible for the towers, walls, and many of the buildings that still define the town’s appearance today.
Unfortunately, we weren’t able to admire the Checkers drawing as the square is undergoing restoration work that will restore it to its former glory. This is yet another reason to return, along with the desire to sample the cuisine of the refined restaurant that occupies the street-level floor of the Locanda. During the warmer months, guests are seated at tables on a small, charming terrace along the main street. The ambiance is simple yet charming, with vaulted ceilings featuring sturdy wooden beams and red brick walls. Armchairs and tables share the space with retro-style wooden furniture and cupboards. The cuisine features authentic Emilian tradition, with a lightened gastronomic twist, featuring seasonal ingredients: a must-try during a future stay at Locanda del Feudo, paired with the wines Andrea recommends.
Strolling slowly with our Otto through the narrow streets and cobblestone squares of this Touring Club Italiano Orange Flag town, we felt like we’d stepped back in time. In the quiet of the evening, in the garden adjacent to the large building that houses the nursery school, only the leaves, falling one upon another, forming a thick carpet of ochre and red, make a gentle rustling sound that intensifies when trampled.
Autumn is calm in the village that we’re told comes alive in the summer. But we did find a few people at vespers mass in the large parish church dedicated to Saints Senesio and Teopompo. We admired its tall, slender bell tower, rising above the rooftops, from the window of our spacious, comfortable suite.
Everything in Castelvetro di Modena invites you to relax, but if you’re in the mood for something more, there’s no shortage of opportunities: from wine tastings to discover the secrets of local viticulture to the chance to savor specialties like traditional balsamic vinegar made according to centuries-old recipes and Parmigiano Reggiano from the Caseificio San Silvestro, made with milk sourced exclusively from the hills of Castelvetro and Marano.
Locanda del Feudo. And in the morning, to kick off the day in the best possible way, we enjoyed a generous breakfast buffet with sweet and savory delicacies, including excellent local cured meats and cheeses, and erbazzone, a popular savory pie made with chard and spinach flavored with chopped lard, typical of Reggio Emilia. As Andrea’s mother, Elisa, told us during our stay, every Emilian family has its own recipe.
After a delicious breakfast, don’t miss a stroll around town to admire the daylight view from the square overlooking the vineyards surrounding the village and the farmhouses emerging from the countryside, bathed in the warm, enveloping red hues of autumn.
Locanda del Feudo
Via Trasversale, 2 – Castelvetro di Modena (MO)
Info: +39 059 708711 – info@locandadelfeudo.it
