Château de Codignat is the ideal setting for a dream getaway in Auvergne, a stunning region in central France renowned as the “land of castles”. While there are as many as 40 castles open to visitors, our experience went beyond the ordinary. Indeed, not only is Château de Codignat worthy of a visit in its own right as a historic landmark, but for Città Meridiane, it also served as a key stop on a tour of France organized in partnership with Explore France.
At the castle amidst volcanoes of Auvergne
We spent a night with Otto in one of the sixteen suites nestled within thick walls that have witnessed all manner of events over the centuries. Each suite tells a part of the castle’s history through the figure to whom it is dedicated, featuring period furnishings and décor inspired by the medieval spirit of the manor, which is set amidst the silence of a vast 15-hectare park. Our intimate and refined chambre de luxe on the second floor is named after François Villon, counted among France’s greatest poets and a key figure of the late medieval poetic tradition.
This is certainly one of the most significant eras in the history of the Château de Codignat, which was built in the 12th century on the foundations of a watchtower overlooking the Dore Valley; the tower served to defend the lords of Ravel by keeping watch over an arkose quarry, a type of local sandstone used to build the region’s fortresses and churches. Over time, the castle was significantly expanded and inhabited by prominent noble families such as the Codegnats, Ravels, Bosts, and d’Estaings, the last of whom included the final known lord, Charles Henri-Théoda d’Estaing, who was guillotined in 1794, leaving no heirs.
After a period of neglect, it was restored in the early 20th century in the style of Viollet-le-Duc, the renowned architect who also oversaw the reconstruction of the fortified citadel of Carcassonne and Notre-Dame in Paris. During the interwar period, the castle was purchased by Prince Obolensky, a descendant of the last Russian Tsar, who found refuge there with his family. L’Obolensky Bar is named after this distinguished figure; open daily from 7:30 a.m. to 11:00 p.m., it offers guests of the Château de Codignat hot and cold beverages as well as excellent cocktails.
The most recent renovation took place in 2024, following its acquisition by Groupe DIES; this work preserved the building’s charm, and, having been transformed into a château d’hôtes, it now welcomes guests into an intimate and convivial atmosphere. The castle is set amidst rolling green hills, from which it rises with its imposing towers; these lead into the interior rooms, which offer a supremely elegant example of period décor.
Château de Codignat takes on a magical aura at night, yet reveals its full beauty when the sun’s rays illuminate the ochre hues of its stone walls. This is the very same stone once quarried from beneath the castle, an ideal material for harmoniously constructing manor houses, churches, and entire villages like La Sauvetat and Montpeyroux, where it is a delight to lose oneself among narrow streets and alleyways, courtyards and private gardens.
In the castle courtyard lies a large swimming pool, next to which stands a giant chessboard; there, Otto had fun, amidst bishops, knights, rooks, and pawns, occupying the squares of the “captured” pieces to deliver checkmate to the king. His fun continued with walks and runs beneath the park’s centuries-old trees, while we enjoyed romantic strolls amidst nature and poetry before dinner.
The restaurant at Château de Codignat showcases the very best of the region, with a tasting menu that offers a journey through the flavors of Auvergne. The establishment’s refined atmosphere, characterized by soft lighting and impeccable service, is mirrored in the sophisticated presentation of the dishes; highlights include the foie gras starter and Truffade, a flavorful local specialty made with sliced potatoes sautéed with cheese and garlic.
However, we also recommend ordering a selection from the cheese trolley, which showcases the finest products of a region that is a true paradise for cheese lovers, famous for no fewer than five Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) specialties: from Saint-Nectaire, with its delicate nutty flavor, to Cantal, one of the oldest pressed-curd cheeses; from Salers, handcrafted exclusively using milk from the cows that give it its name, to Fourme d’Ambert, a blue cheese with a sweet, creamy taste; and finally, the bolder, tangier Bleu d’Auvergne.
Wine connoisseurs like us shouldn’t miss the chance to taste one of the region’s exquisite wines. Drawing from the volcanic terroir, Côtes d’Auvergne DOC wines absorb distinctive minerals and aromas. Although the appellation only received official recognition in 2011, the wines themselves have a much longer history; they were once served at the royal court, highly prized by popes and counted among the most prestigious in France. To accompany our dinner, we chose “La Légendaire” by Desprat Saint-Verny, a truly unique wine renowned for its high-altitude aging process. It matures in two stages: after aging in oak barrels, the wine is taken to an altitude of 1,200 meters, where the bottles are buried or left to rest in traditional buron (stone mountain huts). It is this process that gives the wine its remarkable complexity and finesse. Undoubtedly one of the best wines we’ve tasted on this tour de France! Afterward, a blissful night’s sleep is guaranteed.
In the morning, the cozy fireplace room welcomed us with an inviting, rich and delicious breakfast buffet; this was certainly where we enjoyed the best croissants—the kind you expect from a French breakfast: flaky and with a lingering buttery aroma. Closing the door behind us, retrieving the car from the nearby free guest parking, and returning to reality was truly hard this time!
Château de Codignat
Bort-L’Étang – Francia
Info: +33 04 43 97 64 90 – accueil@chateaudecodignat.fr
In collaboration with Explore France and Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes Tourisme
