Haut Bugey, a territory in the Ain department of the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region, bordering Switzerland, is an ideal destination for travelers with dogs. That is precisely why we couldn’t pass up the invitation from Explore France to discover the area through the experiences it offers for both two-legged and four-legged visitors.
In and around Nantua with Otto
The first stop on our tour with our dog, Otto, was the Tourist Office. We were welcomed by its director, Geoffroy de Fenoyl, who was a driving force behind making Haut Bugey a 100% pet-friendly destination—so much so that it became the first tourist office to earn the “Destination QUALIDOG” certification. The first piece of evidence of this commitment was the “toutoubar” (dog water station) installed right out front, allowing four-legged friends to quench their thirst.
Inside, there is a lovely boutique stocked with everything a dog might need, from toys and bowls to collars and leashes. However, everything is already prepared for Otto in his welcome kit, which includes a guide to dog-friendly activities packed with addresses and recommendations.
Consulting his notes in Italian – an effort we particularly appreciated – director Geoffroy shared his genuine love for dogs and his determination to make the Haut Bugey region and Nantua the perfect holiday destination for the whole family, including its four-legged, furry members.
After having his share of treats and proudly putting on his bandana, Otto was ready to join us for a walk around the lake that gives the town its name. Lake Nantua is of glacial origin and was designated a protected natural site in 1935. The full circuit is about 7 kilometers long and entirely flat; it offers not only postcard-worthy views but also benches shaded by trees where you can stop and rest for a while. Dogs – which must be kept on a leash – can access the water almost anywhere for a refreshing dip, with the exception of the beaches Albert Griot and de la Colonne where the access for four-legged friends is prohibited.
Alternatively, if they prefer to stay dry, you can rent a pedal boat or a stand-up paddleboard (SUP) to glide together across waters that constantly shift in color ranging from sapphire blue under overcast skies to emerald green in the sunshine.
The late-afternoon trek was more demanding; we were accompanied into the mountains by hiking guide Sylvain Poncet along trails used by the French Resistance for operations against the Nazi occupation, routes that also served as strategic passages for refugees and Jews attempting to flee to nearby Switzerland. It was moving to hear stories from that era, tales of the fear of betrayal by spies embedded within the groups, the assistance provided by the local population, and the air raids. Retracing the footsteps of the Resistance fighters was also physically taxing, as the paths had been made slippery by the previous days’ rain.
His four-legged drive, meanwhile, allowed Otto to easily enjoy the lovely walk through woods and alpine pastures, where his attention was captured by the grazing herds. We have already mentioned that Nantua’s crowning glory is its deep-water lake; gazing at it from the summit of the Belvédère de la Colonne is a sight that will remain etched in our memories forever.
The walk through the town center to the Abbey Church of Saint-Michel, considered one of the most impressive in the Ain department, is delightful. Its understated Romanesque style captivates from the outside, while the interior features two highlights: Eugène Delacroix’s masterpiece “The Martyrdom of Saint Sebastian” and an organ of exceptional musical quality, designated a historical monument in 1976.
There are no restrictions or dog-free zones for hikes around Nantua and throughout the Haut-Bugey region, allowing you to enjoy your holiday together at any time of day. We stayed at Hôtel l’Embarcadère, located, as the name suggests, right by the lake near the pier. Before retiring for the night, we enjoyed a refined dinner in the hotel’s dining room, featuring large windows overlooking the water as it was bathed in the last light of sunset before the evening darkness set in.
As for the menu, the pike quenelle in Nantua sauce is a must-try; this classic dish features a large dumpling made from pike flesh, eggs, flour, and butter, served with a béchamel sauce enriched with crayfish and cognac, known as Nantua sauce. The salmon trout tartare was excellent, as was the sparkling wine pairing suggested by the director Geoffroy, a fresh, aromatic wine that was a real discovery. Intrigued, we learned that sparkling wines account for about 60% of the wine production in Haut Bugey, made using both the traditional méthode champenoise and the ancestral method. Furthermore, the Bugey AOC produces unique sparkling wines; for our dinner, we were served Montagnieu, a Méthode Classique Brut with golden hues and a persistent perlage, which paired beautifully with the local fish and cheeses.
The next morning, we visited the Glacières (ice houses) at Lake Sylans, located just a short distance from Nantua.
Nature has since reclaimed the imposing stone structures built in the 19th century to store ice. Yet, even though only the thick outer walls remain standing, it is not difficult to picture the process of harvesting ice from the frozen lake and storing it within the warehouses.
Through the words and guided tour of Jasmin Ley, we stepped back in time nearly 150 years – specifically to 1864 – when Joachim Moinat, owner of the Café du Paradis in Nantua, conceived the idea of utilizing one of the largest natural sites for ice production. Almost twenty years later, ice harvesting from the lake grew into a thriving industry, thanks to the expansion of the railway line, which enabled exports to Lyon, Paris and even Algiers.
At the height of his success, Moinat sold his business to the Paris-based ice company; in the late 19th century, the wooden buildings were replaced by large stone structures, which in 1905 were roofed with a slab of early reinforced concrete known as the “Hennebique system.” Faced with competition from artificial ice and the onset of World War I, the Paris ice company abandoned the site, which today stands as a unique example of industrial archaeology. It is also a lovely spot for a peaceful walk with your four-legged friend—perhaps to work off the delicious tarte à la gomme the director of Tourist Office gifted us before we left.
In collaboration with Explore France, Haut Bugey Tourisme and Ain Tourisme.
